Una visita da Gravner
Una visita da Gravner è un’esperienza totalizzante.
Ad accoglierci è Josko Gravner che porta avanti, assieme a tutta la famiglia, l’azienda che dagli anni ’80 produce vini simbolo della viticoltura friulana. Ci conduce subito tra i vigneti, sedici ettari di Ribolla gialla, Cabernet e Merlot, a cavallo tra le due nazioni, le cui vigne più antiche hanno cinquant’anni. Tra un filare e l’altro incappiamo in qualche pianta di ulivo e ciliegio. “Dagli anni ’70 mio padre ha cominciato ad estirpare tutte le piante da frutto tipiche della zona, a vantaggio della produzione viticola, specie che ora siamo tornati a ripiantare” spiega sottolineando l’importanza del mantenimento della biodiversità vegetale per non usurpare il terreno.
Capiamo quindi il perché di quegli specchi d’acqua che riflettono la luce tra il verde delle colline, l’acqua richiama gli insetti e gli uccelli, indispensabili per mantenere vivo un ecosistema che permetta il rigoglio di questa vegetazione, laghi posti quasi a ringraziamento del dono vitale elargito dal terreno. Tra queste distese vitate sembra che le uniche regole ad imporsi siano quelle dei ritmi naturali, da anni perseguite tramite la coltivazione biologica, e quelle dettate da Rudolf Steiner, padre dell’agricoltura biodinamica, filosofia che solo da quest’anno la famiglia Gravner abbraccia appieno. Ci appare indubbia la ricerca di mantenere un sistema che sia il più possibile “spontaneo”, ponendosi in netto contrasto con l’odierna diffusissima pratica di trasformare gli ettari vitati in vere e proprie fabbriche d’uva, monocolture che mal si confanno alle sedicenti diciture “naturali”. Questo tuttavia non esclude una ricerca ossessiva della qualità, ben esemplificata nelle bassissime rese prodotte per ettaro , arrivando ad appena sei grappoli a pianta.È giunta l’ora di allontanarci da quelle distese scaldate dal sole, per andare a spiare da vicino il luogo mitico in cui il rituale si compie, il luogo dove si vedrà il frutto dello stremante lavoro dell’annata agraria.
Alla vista ci appare una semplice cantina con degli strani buchi nel terreno, ed è proprio all’interno di quei fori che avviene la trasformazione della dolcissima uva surmatura in mosto, che fermenterà e riposerà per un anno, a contatto con le bucce stesse e con la terra cotta delle famose anfore interrate rivestite in cera, per poi lasciargli e invecchiare nelle più comode botti.
“Nel 1987 feci un viaggio in California dove assaggiai più di mille vini, erano gli anni d’oro delle sperimentazioni enologiche, si iniziavano a produrre i primi aromi sintetici, tutti ne erano entusiasti, affascinati e incantati dalle mille facce del progresso. Capii che l’unica direzione possibile per i nostri vini e per quelli del futuro era diretta nel verso opposto, ripartì così dalla culla della viticoltura mondiale, la Georgia e i suoi vini bianchi macerati e fermentati nelle anfore. A causa della guerra fredda prima, e della guerra civile poi, mi fu impossibile raggiungere la terra ispiratrice prima del 2000, anno in cui portò ad Oslavia le prime anfore. Dopo varie sperimentazioni la pionieristica produzione di vini bianchi uscì nel 2001”.Il ritorno alle radici fu così completato nel 2006, primo anno in cui l’intera offerta dell’azienda passava per i tradizionali recipienti.
“Produrre i vini in anfora è come amplificare una melodia; se la musica è sgradevole il processo non farà altro che sottolinearne i difetti, rendendo irritante l’ascolto, se però la musica riprodotta è eccellente, allora il suono emesso non potrà che essere sublime. Tutto ciò ci riporta alla gestazione di una madre, che nutre il figlio fino a quando non sarà pronto ad uscire allo scoperto, allo stesso modo in cui la terracotta stimola il liquido ad acquisire le caratteristiche della terra a cui è vicino, donandogli mineralità e sapidità”.
I vini di Josko escono dopo sette anni, le riserve dopo ventuno ed a seguire con i multipli del numero simbolico che, secondo i principi della biodinamica, corrisponde agli anni necessari per la rigenerazione delle cellule nelle nostre ossa, così il vino è pronto per una nuova vita al di fuori della bottiglia, nelle nostre membra e soprattutto nei nostri cuori.
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