Visita alla Tenuta Hofstätter
Accompagnati dal nostro amico e fornitore Diego Ferrazzo , ieri siamo andati a visitare la Tenuta Hofstätter, attraversando il groviglio di vicoli di Termeno (Alto Adige), nell’ampia piazza del municipio, con il bar e la chiesa. L’azienda vitivinicola ha la propria sede in un’imponente costruzione del XVI secolo che all’epoca venne realizzata per l’imperial-regia stazione di posta e che ospitò poi la locanda “Schwarzer Adler” (Aquila Nera).
Hofstatter è un marchio storico dell’Alto Adige, una realtà di primissimo livello gestita dalla sapiente lungimiranza di Martin Foradori, che ci ha accolto con con grande simpatia e cordialità.
Siamo poi passati all’interno della cantina dove l’enologo aziendale di sempre Franz Oberhofer ci ha spiegato il processo di produzione dei vini.
Franz ci ha accolto come fossimo vecchi amici. Ci ha portato in cantina e spiegato sul posto, il terroir unico della suo territorio; un momento importante per farci capire il significato autentico di un concetto particolare come quello di terroir, di forte impatto ma difficile comprensibilità. Franz ha proposto le 5 etichette di punta, con anche un paio di excursus su annate passate, raccontandoci per ciascuno l’idea da cui ha dato loro vita; tutti i vini ci hanno svelato la stessa passione e precisione del loro creatore, le connotazioni climatiche che insistono su quella porzione di territorio, la presenza del/i vitigno/i, l’aspetto umano, inteso come storia, cultura, tradizione …
Fra le varie bottiglie che abbiamo degustato :
Kolbenhof, 1998
Gewurztraminer storicamente di classe top Color oro chiaro. La florealità varietale è affiancata da note agrumate. Attacco di bocca molto grasso, segnato da una vena di carbonica residua, sviluppo leggermente “pomatato”, con note floreali di lavanda (in continuità col naso) piuttosto intense. Ci sono l’acidità giusta per bilanciare (Oberhofer dice poco sopra i 5 g/l, che non è poco per la tipologia), e soprattutto una vena minerale e salina sotterranea che allunga bene il sorso.
Barthenau Vigna S. Michele, 2014
Da qualche anno ha abbandonato il vecchio uvaggio con chardonnay e sauvignon ed è invece proposto come pinot bianco in purezza, vinificato in botte grande senza lieviti selezionati. Paglierino-verdolino chiaro. Naso iniziale con una mela verde netta e paradigmatica, poi affiancata da una nota nocciolata (arachide?), da un floreale bianco fresco e da lontani ricordi autunnali, di champignon e di mallo di noce, più evidenti con l’alzarsi della temperatura; una certa finezza complessiva, comunque. La sottigliezza apparente del naso è contraddetta da un attacco di bocca piuttosto grassoccio e maturo, più sul frutto giallo, con l’acidità un pelino nascosta. Non corto, però. Buona riuscita “di tecnica” in un’annata potenzialmente così-così, gli lascerei una porta aperta per un’evoluzione positiva nei prossimi 3-4 anni perché è senz’altro un vino equilibrato.
Barthenau Vigna S. Urbano, 2003
Finalmente col più celebre (forse) dei blauburgunder altoatesini arriva l’atteso cambio di passo e di registro: gran vino, ora e per un futuro prevedibilmente non breve. Rubino brillantissimo, un colore davvero da manuale per un pinot nero giovane. Il naso è onestamente perfettibile, nel senso che ha già una certa ampiezza di spunti (partenza con una netta nota di argilla umida e tocchi di sottobosco, poi arancia sanguinella e cola, poi in terza battuta si impone la fragolina) ma l’intensità in questa fase non è al massimo, diciamo che i profumi non saltano fuori dal bicchiere, ma li devi un po’ cercare. La bocca però è qualcosa di clamoroso: tesa, nervosa, lunghissima, agrumatissima, con un tannino fine fine ma ben “grippante”; sono il primo (e lo dico) a non gradire i paragoni esterni, ma qui si nebbioleggia alla grande. Magnifici l’equilibrio e nitidezza delle sensazioni. Annata di grazia!
L’obiettivo di Hofstatter è quello di unire nel migliore dei modi la secolare tradizione della propria terra con una costante innovazione: applicando tecniche di coltivazione delicate e vicine alla natura. La straordinaria qualità delle bottiglie Hofstatter ci conferma che questo obiettivo viene raggiunto anno dopo anno, regalando vini dotati di grande eleganza ed equilibrio. Pinot Nero, Cabernet Sauvignon e Merlot sono i tre vitigni rossi più coltivati nelle tenute di Hofstatter e danno vita a vini rossi importanti, senza dimenticare gli ottimi riscontri avuti dal Lagrein.
Alto Adige è sinonimo anche di ottimi vini bianchi. Hofstatter produce un Gewurztraminer davvero unico e riconosciuto dalle principali guide del settore. Pinot Bianco, Chardonnay e Muller Thurgau sono tre validissime alternative nella pregiata scelta di vini bianchi di Hofstatter.
Tutte le bottiglie sono accomunate da una minuziosa cura del particolare e da un lavoro quotidiano nelle vigne assolate. Il perfetto connubio di tutti gli ingredienti permette alle bottiglie di Hofstatter di collocarsi, anno dopo anno, ai vertici del proprio settore e di rappresentare con pieno merito l’eccellenza vinicola della propria terra, l’Alto Adige.
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